You can always expect flowers in a Zimmermann collection, usually rendered in the prettiest, dreamiest, and most frothy way. Pastel dresses dotted with flowers, chiffon ruffles cut into 3D petals, this is Nicky Zimmermann’s calling card. But spring 2022 made him want something a little less fragile. As we come out of a pandemic and face other nightmares including climate change, most women are not in the mood to look or feel awkward. Zimmermann and his team have found a new way to make flowers: photograph bouquets in a studio, then digitize and edit them to be bolder, sharper, and more abstract. A cutout dress was printed with dripping watercolor roses, then styled in combat boots; another was splashed with clusters of flowers in hyper saturated shades of yellow and blue, topped with a black choker. Other looks omitted florals entirely with new punk details, such as a jagged blush tulle dress studded with gold and pearl piercings.
Zimmermann mainly thought of ballerinas. Of course, their leotards and warm-up clothes translated straight into a few looks, like a stretchy layered bodysuit and a lace dress that hugged the hips before exploding into a tutu-esque bubble skirt, but it was the balance of being a dancer who informed more of the designer’s vision: to negotiate athletic power and grace, strength and fluidity. This could sum up the number of women who want to feel post-pandemic: newly empathetic, but unwilling to compromise or take anything for granted. The refined aesthetic could also attract a new group of young clients – people who couldn’t relate to a romantic dress in the past, but see themselves in the stronger prints, sporty perforations and gold studded tulle. .