VTMNTS is the new project of Guram Gvasalia, an offshoot of the Vetements brand, with strong dress codes that were very present during tonight’s striking show. The location was an empty former Monoprix on Boulevard Raspail. The VTMNTS team lined it with wooden benches and invited guests to sit wherever they pleased. The energy in the piece was reminiscent of Vetements of yore, when Guram Gvasalia and his brother Demna played with the conventions of the fashion system.
As birdsong through the speakers gave way to a bass-laden soundtrack that Shazam couldn’t identify, the first model charged through the automatic doors at the back of the store. They wore a dark red double-breasted suit jacket in bi-stretch with piping on the sleeves and shoulder seams that Gvasalia said he put in place to avoid copying. Their black pants were unzipped at the hems, to better accommodate their substantial shoes: cowboy boots whose stitching bore the VTMNTS barcode logo with combat boot soles. It was a boss figure, strong but not strange.
The 59 outfits that followed were variations on this theme. On some looks, Gvasalia lined the jackets or added a matching bespoke coat. On others, the pants have been replaced with colorful sweatpants with side stripes. Here and there a flash of underwear was exposed by a low waistband; Gvasalia hinted that VTMNTS will unveil a full lineup soon. Outerwear included high cut down jackets under the armpits and letter jackets. A cloud print on a zippered coat recalled an early Louis Vuitton collection by the late Virgil Abloh or The simpsons, which would be a nod to his brother. Gvasalia said he took it from a childhood puzzle of Neuschwanstein Castle, a fairy tale in Germany, and kept the pattern of the puzzle piece as the surface treatment.
All of these looks were served up with attitude by a mixed cast of mostly runway newbies, many with trendy cuts. What Gvasalia seemed to be doing here was establish a VTMNTS uniform, and non-binarity is as much a hallmark of the label as a punchy seam or its barcoded logo. But why the Eminem hoodie near the end? The “Remember Me!” the posts in both sleeves seemed to hint that there was more to come on this topic. Gvasalia has our attention.