A few days ago, an invitation arrived for an evening in honor of Daniel Roseberry. There is a new Schiaparelli shop-in-shop at Bergdorf Goodman in New York to christen. Roseberry’s dizzying embrace of the surreal aesthetic of house founder Elsa Schiaparelli is the gold of the red carpet, where more is always more. The more daring her haute couture designs, the more prominent the celebrity hits. Who can forget the sight of Bella Hadid at the Cannes Film Festival in July in a daring plunging neckline dress with only golden lungs covering her topless breasts?
Will the ready-to-wear that Bella watchers and curious Schiap shoppers come across at Bergdorf be this cheeky? You better believe it. “People come to us as an alternative to mass luxury homes,” Roseberry said. “They are looking for something really strong. So that’s what he has prepared for the spring. Schiaparelli’s Place Vendôme salons were organized by room, and first of all, Roseberry’s wildly imaginative jewelry of body parts – ears, nose, eyes, lips, pierced nipples, etc. Her exaltation of the human form also took the form of a gold-dipped resin bib cast from a model’s torso and hung from a chain. He suggests wearing it solo under jackets, like a Gen Z dickey.
How surreal does it get? There is an inflatable black leather bolero and a matching belt, as well as an inflatable parka, complete with air valves; a fitted mesh dress with embossed details in the form of Salvador Dalí’s famous rib cage dress; and Gaultier-style tapered bras in all directions: in leather, denim and silk arranged in scrolls like the petals of a flower. The mood, Roseberry said, was “David Lynch’s vacation.” The tailoring and outerwear, on the other hand, were classic cut, but treated with all kinds of golden balls for the body parts. “Nobody wants black jackets without the nipples,” he noted.
Many of the cocktail acts have their couture debut, including a pair of sublimely draped black silk charmeuse dresses hanging from gold necklaces. A short but square bolero with oversized lapels had a different starting point, Roseberry said. It was based on the jacket he made for playwright Jeremy O. Harris to wear at the Tonys last month. The words Hotel Schiap were sewn around the hem of a densely embellished bathrobe. It is an idea ; there would be plenty of takers for a few mind-blowing days and nights in Roseberry’s world. Maybe Cardi B among them. His appearance at Schiap headquarters yesterday caused a stir.