Rejina Pyo is 35 weeks pregnant, so you could argue that she has bigger fish to fry right now, but it’s actually a mindset that has worked in her favor this season. “I don’t know if it’s the relaxing hormone that kicks in, but I’m really not panicking,” she said with a laugh when we spoke the day before her show. “I was very calm. In all fairness, there might have been something to panic about. It was her first show since the pandemic and she chose to stage it in the sprawling London Aquatic Center, staged by UK Olympic team divers Emily Martin, Josie Zilling and Robyn Birch. Their alliance was born during Pyo’s visit to the site, which coincided with Team GB’s training session for the Olympics. “We were fascinated by them,” Pyo recalls, “and they were eager to be a part of the show, so it happened in a very organic way. “
There was a clean simplicity to this collection that seemed fresh to Pyo and it was evident from her opening look: the nonchalant way of an orange sheer shirt was tied around the waist over a lime green lace knit and stocking. bikini top, and elsewhere, in the combination of a pair of extra-long raffia rockets and a loose-fitting black tee featuring a Korean street scene, printed from a photograph taken by the designer when she was a teenager. More of her photographs have appeared: scenes from New York and Seoul were printed on pencil skirts and wrap tops, and also on intarsia knit tank tops. “These are fragments of memories of past trips,” she said. “I guess I looked at them with a feeling of nostalgia, they seemed to evoke more free days. I liked that they felt a little naive, back in the days when there was nothing to fear. In other words, before the pandemic. Pyo thought back to a time when she could get on a plane as easily as hail a cab. “I wanted to explore this feeling you get on vacation; when you could dress a little bolder, and that sense of anonymity you get when you’re away from home and tend to let go a little more.
A cartoon mouse pattern was inspired by a children’s book that she regularly reads to her four-year-old son. Over a dress with spaghetti straps, she was juxtaposed with other seemingly random images – a director’s chair, a bird, a car – like snippets from a dream (regardless of pregnancy, Pyo experienced vivid dreams her entire life. life). It’s also worth noting that this was his most enduring collection to date. Her two-tone orange and pink swimsuits were made from recycled Italian nylon, and the jeans were made from organic denim.
Usually favoring more structured materials and silhouettes, this season there was a softness that inaugurated a new femininity. “I don’t think women have to pretend they are physically as strong as men; it’s good to be gentle sometimes and to kiss it, ”she said with a laugh. “I don’t know… maybe it’s because I’m having a daughter.”