Lorenzo Serafini was talking about freedom before his philosophy show today. âIt’s about the power of movement, of wanting to show more skin. It is a rebirth: a return to life. And I wanted to celebrate it. Such reflections have been a common refrain this season, and there has been some consensus on what the rebirth will look like. In Milan, the creators took a difficult turn towards sex appeal, Serafini included.
The catsuits and lingerie clothes he offered for spring represent a significant change from his fall, which was rather preppy with his school uniforms and Letterman sweaters. This collection was also different from the previous one, which had a more bohemian and earthy vibe. We have all done some soul searching over the past year and a half of the pandemic. This time around, Serafini explained that his soul-searching brought him back to his early days in fashion. He pointed to a moodboard pinned with Italian Vogue photos of a young Sofia Coppola; and mid-90s Philosophy advertising campaigns by Mark Borthwick and Steven Meisel.
On the catwalk, a long red lacquered slip dress evokes the mid-90s. Otherwise, the collection has gone from these lycra jumpsuits to micro-flowers, intarsia sticky knits and a section of liquid sequins, with garments in vegan leather exterior with fringes as a finishing touch. There was also a deconstructed ’70s denim skirt via the’ 90s deconstructed denim skirt. The show didn’t necessarily hold out, but its racy and stripped provocation was all the rage. For those seeking Serafini’s iconic softness, it comes at the end in the form of a white ruffled lace dress worn with strappy flat sandals.