In her broadcast notes this season, Margaret Howell described her process as a “review and renewal” process. You might not initially think of Howell’s constant, almost seasonless approach to design as one of constant renewal, but on closer inspection, it’s a maxim that holds true. After celebrating 50 years with the company last year, Howell has quietly updated some of his classic pieces from the 1970s and 80s, all stored in an archive a few blocks from his flagship store in Marylebone, and molded them into a whole new light with a few smooth adjustments.
While the utility and studied minimalism that made her a mainstay of the British fashion scene were all present and correct, Howell also added some more playful notes this season. In the lookbook, washed waxed cotton sou’wester hats were angled askew, while silk bandanas were tied around the mannequins’ necks, fluttering in the studio’s artificial wind in a way that gently recalled the irreverent spirit. of the London-centric ‘by Ray Petri. ’80s Buffalo movement. Howell’s iconic chore coats were pinched at the waist with utility belts, while loose navy pants tucked into white socks pulled high above the ankle, much like the ankle. pants, for a more playful silhouette than usual.
They might be delicious, but you don’t necessarily come to Howell for the quirky moments seen in his vibrant lookbook images, but rather reliable (and effortlessly timeless) wardrobe basics. Don’t worry: she’s got you covered there too. As always, the highlights were in the tactility of Howell’s irresistible combinations of textures: crisp cotton gauze shirts dyed in sorbet yellow under a perfect linen A-line dress by day or by night – with pockets, of course – or for men, stiff Japanese denim jackets over butter-soft Egyptian cotton tees. The light and easy summer knits came in neutral and earthy tones, while the tailoring had a relaxed feel, with some of the women’s pants blooming in a subtle style. Balancing his dependable eye for function with something that felt airy and looser, for Howell’s loyal army of fans, there was a lot here to be charmed – and with the youthful style of his lookbook, there could be a few pieces. for a new audience, too.