Lady Gaga wore an Elie Saab haute couture gown embroidered with sequins and sparkling crystals on stage at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures opening gala last month. She was a glamorous spectacle. Saab will never be known above all for its breathtaking evening dresses, but it puts more energy than ever in its ready-to-wear. Let’s face it, there are more of us than Lady Gagas in the world.
Like most of its peers, Saab supports monogram prints in an important way. His is designed with oversized nested lowercase e’s, for his first name. It is a different approach from that of its competitors; more graphic, and, he thinks, maybe a bit ’70s. Beyond the new logo, what sets this collection apart from its recent ready-to-wear releases is its extreme casualness. There are macrame lace summer dresses, sets of shirts and shorts, and an easy sleeveless change in the A-line mod seen elsewhere this week, though it does tackle the crepe day’s tailoring which has largely contributed to its ready-to-wear production. up to this point.
The spirit of the collection is optimistic. “You want to see life in a fresher way,” he said, suggesting he and his clients are emerging from the dark days of Covid. “The color is the sun.” Her palette is definitely vibrant, dominated by undertones of coral, lime green and cyan blue. Prints are a rarity at Saab, so the lush red and green botanical pattern he used on a maxi dress with a gathered halter neckline and cutout bodice has a special charm.