Edeline Lee’s Spring / Summer 22 collection has a surprisingly sunny layout considering that it was designed while the UK was on lockdown. But then she tells you how she spent her evenings in confinement: “Literally, I spent every night working on color theory; playing with color wheels and mixing combinations, ”she says on a Zoom call from her studio. “I had the idea of making a rainbow, a whole spectrum of optimistic colors.” 53 colors to be precise, and each one rediscovered in its own workshop. “We were still in the middle of a pandemic and it didn’t feel right to order more fabric, so I looked around my studio and thought, ‘I’m just going to use everything here. “We used all the leftovers from previous seasons.
The result looked anything but tinkered with. “I wanted him to feel very free; be a matter of escape, ”she explains. It was a sentiment that also extended to her digital presentation, which set her clothes against Kyung Roh Bannwart’s dreamy landscapes, ranging from mountain ranges to space. “It was at a time when we all felt pretty trapped, so the idea of freeing ourselves, of being able to go anywhere without limits – to the moon if your heart desires – was really appealing. ” FrankKnitty3000 worked on the trippy animations for her directorial debut, Tom Burke wrote the space soundtrack, and Christina Wood contributed vocals.
Surrealism aside, Lee notes that there are plenty of solutions for the job (her business is rooted in professional women’s clothing; most of her fabrics are immune to wrinkling, for example). Now that her client is returning to the office, she will need a look that extends beyond the size-zoom-appropriate. But there are also plenty of after-hours dramas, like cocktail numbers decorated with bows that are boned to hold their shape. “I was watching the Met Gala this week, and it was great to see women dress up again. I think we all need it now,” says Lee. “Because what our job as designers is if this is not to offer joy? “