“Simple, but sophisticated. This is the source code of APC and this is how Jean and Judith Touitou described their new spring collection. Eighteen months of Covid has puffed up and embossed designers all over the place, but you’re not going to hear all of the people talking about Roaring Twenties fashion or Y2K dressing.
APC’s new spring lookbook was photographed in Le Havre, a town in Normandy which, after being badly bombed during WWII by the Allies (it was occupied by the Germans), was later rebuilt by the architect Auguste Perret using the first examples of concrete moldings. What you heard today at the head office of the Rive Gauche company is Jean and Judith talking about the link between Le Havre architecture and APC aesthetics. “It looks boring and a bit neurotic, with its repetitive building facades,” Jean said of the city. “But when you look in detail, all the buildings are different even though they all look the same. This is why I see a total similarity with our own work.
On the shelves, jeans, shirt dresses and raincoats looked quite familiar, but the details are worth noting. The stripes on a shirt, for example, are imperfect, much like the painted stripes of Daniel Buren. Other pleasures are more personal: like the checkered lining of a trench coat, or the silky lining of a checked woolen shirt. The silhouettes for women and men are subtly oversized; the Touitous were looking for a post-pandemic slump. On the accessories side, the infamous Douche bag, a meta-critique of the luxury handbag market in the form of a drawstring leather bag, has been remade for the first time in vegan leather, sophisticated but simple.